NEW URWERK UR-230 “Black Star”
URWERK UR-230 “Black Star”: Technical Overview
The URWERK UR-230 “Black Star,” launching at the end of 2025, will conclude URWERK’s trilogy of iconic satellite complications. This trilogy explored the mechanical possibilities of URWERK’s signature satellite complications, employing distinctly different materials and conceptual frameworks. If Eagle showcased the texture of raw carbon fiber, and Polaris presented a mineral-like white, then Black Star takes it a step further conceptually: it is not simply darkness, but a paradoxical radiance born from shadow.
Dial: Absence Becomes Within Reach
The dial of the Black Star watch follows a visual logic that subverts the traditional relationship between light and shadow in watchmaking. It does not seek reflection, but rather absorbs light. URWERK designers achieved this using a composite ceramic material developed specifically for this series. This material is composed of multiple layers of woven ceramic, glass fiber, and carbon fiber, supported by a polymer matrix. After precision machining, this exceptional structure reveals its true character: the luminous relief created during the process, its flat surface illuminated by shimmering points of light, creates a rich and vibrant black texture. This effect is difficult to fully capture in a static image, as the dial’s appearance changes significantly with the angle of light and the viewing position.
The complication itself remains a signature design element of fake URWERK. Three cubic hour satellites move along a 120-degree sector over 60 minutes, their rotation coordinated by a central rotating mechanism. The hour disc, indicating the current time, moves along the dial guided by a skeletonized retrograde hand, accompanying the satellites from the zero mark to the 60 mark. Upon reaching the end of the arc, the hand instantly returns to the zero mark, ready to guide the next satellite. The minute markers themselves also showcase URWERK’s unique style: the vertically placed minute markers act as a reference orbit, anchoring the hour display within a clear and easily understood time structure.
The dial’s decoration embodies a manufacturing philosophy that transcends mere aesthetics, bordering on ritualistic. The dial itself is adorned with intricate three-dimensional engraving and presented with a circular satin-brushed texture. The sub-dials feature shot-blasted and satin-brushed indicators. The hour markers are coated with hand-applied Super-LumiNova™ luminescent material, while the directional markers use a yellow-blue luminescent finish. The retrograde hands are finely sandblasted and anodized. The satellite cams are also sandblasted and coated with DLC (diamond-like carbon) for enhanced visual depth within the overall design. Other Super-LumiNova-coated components are presented with carefully designed color relationships: yellow-blue luminescence indicates automatic winding, red indicates the 60-minute mark and power off status, and green indicates power on status.
Movement: Architecture as Expression
The UR-7.30 movement is the mechanical heart of this watch, entirely developed in-house by the URWERK workshop and housed within a nearly sealed titanium case—a mechanical vault designed to protect the movement from the wear and tear of daily wear. This protection is crucial to the structural integrity of the watch, as the composite ceramic case itself is relatively fragile and requires additional safeguards to protect the movement.
The movement’s architecture emphasizes the skillful combination of surface treatments and finishes, viewing them as a fundamental expression of watchmaking craftsmanship. The baseplate is machined from ARCAP P40 copper-aluminum alloy, an alloy known for its exceptional dimensional stability. The central disc, the key rotational center connecting the three hour markers, and its fixing screws, are all machined from Grade 5 titanium. The hour marker transmission mechanism, responsible for sequentially placing the markers in the correct positions, is made of aluminum alloy, as is the 3D minute hand, which is also made of aluminum alloy and equipped with counterweights to maintain its balance during retrograde motion.
The movement’s chronograph regulation follows URWERK’s unique double-turbine system, its precision breathtaking. One turbine absorbs external shocks, protecting the delicate balance spring and escapement from sudden impacts during wear. The other turbine regulates the airflow within the automatic winding mechanism, acting like a true aerodynamic brake, effectively controlling the rotor’s speed and oscillation amplitude. This system breaks away from traditional shock absorption methods, eliminating vibrations through air resistance rather than traditional jewel bearing damping. The control knob on the case back allows adjustment or even complete deactivation of the rotor load, facilitating easy switching between automatic and manual winding modes. Two symmetrical indicators at 11 o’clock and 1 o’clock display the system’s current setting.
This movement features a double barrel design, providing a power reserve of up to 48 hours, ensuring excellent power reserve between windings. The escapement employs a classic Swiss lever design, while the balance wheel utilizes a variable inertia structure for fine-tuning timekeeping performance. The frequency is 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), a standard frequency that balances chronograph accuracy with the inherent mechanical stresses of the satellite system. The balance spring features a flat design, designed to ensure stability under the rotational forces generated by the rotating carriage.
Inside the movement, 50 jewel bearings support the operating mechanism and gear train, evenly distributed throughout the movement to reduce friction at key pivot points. The finishing of these components transcends mere functionality, reaching a level of perfection. The rotating base undergoes fine sandblasting, while its frame features a shot-blasted circular satin brushed finish and black rhodium plating, further enhancing the visual depth of the movement plates.
Case Study: Protective Innovation and Material Courage
The UR-230 “Black Star” luxury replica watch case measures 44.81 mm wide and 53.55 mm long, giving it a substantial feel on the wrist. Its thickness of 14.30 mm strikes a balance between sporty functionality and refined elegance. This size accommodates the complex satellite system and protective structures surrounding the movement while ensuring a comfortable fit for wrists of various sizes.
The case material represents URWERK’s most ambitious material exploration to date. Watchmaker and co-founder Felix Baumgartner frankly describes the creative challenge: on the one hand, there is a yearning for the aesthetic qualities of ceramic, such as its clean, precise craftsmanship and inherent beauty; on the other hand, ceramic itself is extremely fragile, with a single impact potentially leading to catastrophic breakage. URWERK did not succumb to this limitation, instead commissioning the development of a composite ceramic specifically for this series. This material is composed of multiple layers of woven ceramic, glass fiber, and carbon fiber, all integrated into a polymer matrix. The processing showcases the layering of different materials, creating a shimmering embossed effect on a vibrant black surface, adorned with sparkling dots.
The case back is made of black DLC-coated titanium paired with a transparent sapphire crystal, allowing for a clear view of the movement’s intricate finishing while effectively preventing water ingress. The transparent sapphire crystal on the dial also provides a clear view of the satellite system’s operation. Water resistant to 30 meters (3 ATM), it is sufficient for everyday splashes and brief water contact, but not suitable for swimming or diving.
The strap is made of vulcanized rubber and imprinted with the “Kiska” logo. The rubber material is the brand’s signature yellow, creating a striking contrast with the composite ceramic case, yet complementing each other perfectly. The strap uses a Velcro closure, a convenient design that allows for quick adjustment to accommodate different wrist sizes and seasonal changes in wrist circumference.
Conclusion: A Timepiece as a Cosmic Meditation
The UR-230 “Black Star” watch, with its exceptional elegance, perfectly concludes the URWERK 230 trilogy. If the “Eagle” showcased the exploration of materials, and the “Polaris” presented a crystal-clear reflection, then the “Black Star” completely subverts this concept. This watch does not aim to reveal light, but rather reinterpret it, absorbing light in deep shadows and then releasing it in a random shimmering manner. Martin Frey’s description of the “Black Star” concept draws on the understanding of collapsing stars in astrophysics—stars that absorb light like black holes, yet wander on the cosmic boundary of existence and demise—precisely capturing the essence of the watch. It is neither concealment nor pure revelation, but a more philosophical provocation: a paradoxical existence.
The UR-230 “Black Star” watch showcases exquisite craftsmanship in every detail, reflecting URWERK’s relentless pursuit of technological innovation and superior finishing. The satellite complication has undergone numerous movement iterations and improvements, reaching new heights in this latest iteration. The twin-turbine winding system’s adjustment mechanism is entirely different from traditional automatic winding mechanisms. The movement’s decorative craftsmanship rivals that typically found in precious metal sports watches with complex functions. Limited to 35 pieces, this timepiece ensures its exclusivity and prestige as a testament to exquisite craftsmanship and technical achievement. This watch combines mechanical art, material exploration, and a philosophical interpretation of the relationship between light and darkness. Undoubtedly, the “Black Star” watch has joined the ranks of the year’s best timepieces.
URWERK UR-230 “Black Star” Technical Specifications
UR-230 Black Star
Moving
URWERK-developed UR-7.30 caliber
Modular automatic winding
Swiss lever escapement
Frequency 28,800 volts/hour – 4 Hz
Balanced variable inertia
Jewel 50
Flat hairspring
Dual-tube power reserve
48-hour power reserve
ARCAP P40 baseplate, aluminum 3D minute hand with counterweight;
Steel central spring; aluminum hour transfer mechanism; Grade 5 titanium central dial and screw
Termination
Hour markers coated with Super-LumiNova™ luminescent material
The structure features a finely 3D engraved finish and is decorated with a circular satin brushed pattern.
Shot-blasted satin-brushed sub-dial indicators
Fine-sandblasted carousel with a round, satin-polished, rhodium-plated black cage with a shot-blasted finish
Fine-sandblasted satellite camera with DLC coating
Fine-sandblasted anodized 3D hands
Components are hand-painted with Super-LumiNova™: hour markers are yellow with blue luminescence; automatic indicator is yellow with blue luminescence; 60-minute markers and the off position of the automatic indicator are red with green luminescence; the on position indicator is green.
Polished screws
Indications
Roaming time on satellite complication (URWERK patent)
3D retrograde minute hand
Aerodynamic winding adjustment indicator (air brake)
Automatic winding status indicator (on-off)
Case
Material Exclusive ceramic composite material, jointly developed and serviced by URWERK and URWERK
Dimensions: Width: 44.81 mm; Length: 53.55 mm; Thickness: 14.30 mm
Transparent sapphire crystal glass
Case back: Black DLC-coated titanium and sapphire crystal glass.
Water resistance: Pressure tested up to 30 meters/3 cubic meters
Strap: Vulcanized rubber, reference “Kiska” brand. Velcro clasp.
