Speaking of watches with a moderate appearance, they are not suitable for complex watches with such a long history. However, if you look at the version that currently represents the series, the latest Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph may be the most discreet version of all watches. Gold and opaque silver leaves – this is a beautiful and classic accessory, at the same time a complementary and pure, low-key piece of the series.
The outstanding Grande Complication 5270 offers rose gold, solid precious metal strap and black dial for the last time, platinum, black dial and diamond bezel (Ref. 5270-1R-001), or platinum version dial with salmon (Ref. 5270P-001) ).
In particular, the latter was praised for its retro look when it was launched in 2018. It is still extremely coveted and almost single-handedly paved the way for the continued trend of salmon-colored dials. However, it is true that rose gold is not for everyone-especially when making six-figure investments.
Therefore, it is understandable that Patek Philippe will add this new gold 5270J to the gorgeous watch. The result is so soft, Patek Philippe itself is so typical and familiar that we almost have to ask ourselves: Is this really new?
Its functions include baton markers and feuille pointers, double windows at 12 o’clock in a week and a month, moon phase window and leap year indicator. 5270J is the first golden yellow version of this model. In this form, it can be said that the new model serves as an oasis of peace in our unresolved world. It is worth mentioning that it can certainly rest assured and encourage all manufacturers fans who are repelled by more modern designs, such as the recently launched limited edition Calatrava 6007.
Chronograph with perpetual calendar: history
In order to understand the importance of this reference book, the most recent auction is only needed: the rose gold reference book 1518 was formerly a work by Jean-Claude Biver (Jean-Claude Biver) and recently sold for 3.4 million Swiss francs. Was auctioned, setting a new world record. .
1518 is the mother of all Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronographs and the first mass-produced watch with these complications. Although in this case, the term “serial production” may be misleading; as far as we know, only 281 models of this watch were produced in 14 years of production. Followed by references 2499, 3970, 5970, and finally the first 5270 in 2011.
With a diameter of 41 mm and a height of 12.4 mm, it is the largest manual-winding chronograph with a perpetual calendar in Patek Philippe’s history. This is why many traditionalists appreciate the predecessor models even though the 5270 is very compact and discreet.
The so-called “chin” has caused more discussion in the past-the dial design of the early reference has been carefully designed so that the subdial that displays the moon phase and date at six o’clock needs to protrude. Tachymeter scale; details that many people were not satisfied with, and were adjusted quickly.
The 2020 Gold Edition is flawless, mature and harmonious in design. In addition to the chronograph with a perpetual calendar which is particularly important to Patek Philippe, the 5270 also enjoys a very special place in the family history. the company. Calibre 29-535 is the first such internal movement in Patek Philippe’s history. Its predecessor was the 27-70 movement, which was based on the Lemania movement.
29-535 combines six patented chronograph innovations, but unfortunately the sight of 5270 will still be rare now. Because you want to use the chronograph button, you need to understand how the stopwatch moves and stops continuously and precisely, and see how the luxury copy watch history is created from 456 individual parts that move at a rate of 4Hz or 28,800 vibrations per hour – absolutely every clock An extraordinary experience for audiophiles. Therefore, it is not surprising that the circle of outstanding fans ranges from Drake (owner of the diamond cut version) to Sylvester Stallone (team salmon) and Ellen DeGeneres (rose gold with bracelet).
Comparing the 5270J movement (CH 29-535 PS Q movement) with the 5370P movement from the open back cover side (CHR 29-535 PS Q movement), we can notice that: the second is chasing The hand chronograph (5370P) looks more beautiful with a complicated chronograph movement and perpetual calendar (5270J). In addition, the 5270J with 456 components has a diameter of 32 mm and a height of 7 mm, while the 5370P with 312 components has a diameter of 29.6 mm and even a height of 7.1 mm. One would hope that two complications (perpetual calendar and chronograph) take up more space than a one-second chronograph, because it also requires more components.
The reason is that both references are based on the same basic movement, but the split-second chronograph is more complicated than the classic chronograph because it requires a second start-stop mechanism. Through the two referenced back covers, only two different timing mechanisms are visible, but the calendar module is not displayed. As for the second chronograph, the second chronograph is made on the basis of the basic mechanism, which actually takes up more space than the traditional perpetual calendar chronograph. The larger diameter of the 5270J movement is due to the calendar module.
Among the 5270 references, this new golden yellow variant will definitely be particularly popular. It is not eye-catching, it has no trend, nor does it convey a retro and modern look. Instead, it shows a combination of two complications-manual winding chronograph and perpetual calendar-both of which are typical representatives of Patek Philippe, whose quality and design can only be found in the Stern family.
Patek Philippe is at the high end of the scale, and we can assume that it is difficult for collectors to master the watch copy. This is already the case with the salmon color version, and has become popular, and this new, incredibly popular color scheme will certainly not change.
FEATURES BRAND: Patek Philippe
MODEL: Grand Complications – Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
CASE MATERIAL: Yellow Gold
DIMENSIONS: Diameter: 41.0 mm
Height: 12.4 mm
WATER RESISTANCE: 3 bar (~ 30 m)
DIAL: Silvery opaline, gold applied hour markers
STRAP/BRACELET: Alligator leather, hand-stitched, matte chocolate brown
MOVEMENT: Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q
MOVEMENT TYPE: Manual winding
POWER RESERVE: With the chronograph disengaged: min. 55 hours – max. 65 hours
FREQUENCY: 28,800 vph, 4 Hz
FUNCTIONS: Hours, Minutes, Small seconds, Chronograph, Central chronograph hand, Instantaneous 30-minute counter, Perpetual calendar, Day, month, leap year and day/night indication in apertures, Date by hand, Moon phases