Grand Feu enamel dials, chronographs and advanced complications appeared on the menu of fake Ulysse Nardin Geneva Watch Day, the miniature watch exhibition held in Switzerland this week. Like Bulgari, Ulysse Nardin is the founding partner of the show. Although it only focuses on one series, it has launched five new models for its Marine Torpileur series. All movements are equipped with a silicon escapement (the company was the first to use this material on its Freak model in 2001) and are marked with the iconic “Chronometry since 1846” to herald the 175th anniversary of Ulysse Nardin.
The latest generation of Marine Torpileur chronometers debuted in 2017 and is a lighter and thinner iteration of the brand’s marine astronomical observatories. Today’s new features provide collectors on the market with a series of dress watches with changes in size, complexity, and elegant dial technology and design.
Although the highlight of this watch is the patented constant escape tourbillon at 6 o’clock, which won the Tourbillon Award at the 2015 GPHG (or Oscar in the watchmaking world), but the dial cannot be ignored. It is handmade over 90%, using elite black Grand Feu enamel produced by the enamel workshop Donzé Cadrans, which was acquired by Ulysse Nardin in 2011. It also comes with oversized white Roman numerals and a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. It is properly set in a polished and satin-finished 5N rose gold case with a fluted bezel. This 42mm x 11.93mm watch is priced at US$48,400 and is limited to 175 pieces. It is the most expensive product in the new series.
Marine Torpileur Chronograph of the Year
Two annual chronograph versions, with lacquered white or matte blue dials set in a fluted steel case, improved independent watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin’s 1996 annual calendar system, and improved settings, now available through Turn the crown forward to adjust or backward to set the time and date more easily. The chronograph is displayed at 3 o’clock, while the annual calendar and small seconds are displayed in the subdial at 9 o’clock. At 44 mm x 13.66 mm, this is the largest watch in the new series-it requires a lot of space to house the components needed to make the annual chronograph.
Marine Torpileur blue enamel
Sing the blues! This eye-catching Grand Feu blue enamel dial is also handmade by Donzé Cadrans, distinguishing it from its brother Marine Torpielleur Panda (pictured below). It has contrasting white Roman numerals and cathedral pointers. It is equipped with a UN-118 movement with a 60-hour power reserve. It is located at 12 o’clock and has a larger subdial at 6 o’clock to display the second hand and date window. This 42mm x 11.3mm stainless steel timepiece is in limited edition.
Ocean Torpedo Panda
This is the first time that Ulysse Nardin has launched a panda dial. The Swiss watchmaker’s interpretation of the popular dial design-nicknamed bear for its two black eyes or counters, usually laid out horizontally in the center of the white dial-and in the same way subverts tradition in the vertical arrangement of the counter Such as Marine Torpileur Blue Enamel. Here, the small blue dial contrasts with the white dial with blue oversized Roman numerals. It is also equipped with the UN-118 movement, set in a 43 mm x 11.3 mm stainless steel case, which is basically the same as the watch above, without Grand Feu enamel and a different color.
Marine Torpilleur Moonphase
Finally, the moon phase version of Marine Torpileur ($9,900) is available in blue solar-brushed PVD or painted white dial, with a 42mm x 11.13mm stainless steel case with a fluted bezel. It is powered by the UN-119 movement, which is a COSC-certified automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve at 12 o’clock. Just below at 6 o’clock, the moon phase is set in a small dial, which also reads the small second hand. The moon is made of multi-layer decals, while the starry sky is made of blue PVD .