Stable taste statement
The relentless enthusiasm for Patek Philippe’s stainless steel and sports models has puzzled many people. At the core of Patek Philippe are thin, classic and sophisticated timepieces, equipped with exquisite movements and housed in precious metal cases. They are often referred to as eternity, although this does not preclude renewal. On the contrary, the timepiece series has been redesigned slightly to withstand the passage of time. Therefore, in the spirit of longevity, the Geneva brand embarked on a very delicate task, namely to release a new generation of essential basic watches, the Calatrava with the Paris studded bezel.
The new Calatrava “Clous de Paris” may not seem like a big deal, but in fact it is because after its release in 1985, this design became an integral part of Patek Philippe’s identity: design, watchmaking, and refined statement always. It offers a new, wider 41 mm diameter, with a choice of white gold with a charcoal gray dial or rose gold with a light silver grained dial, equipped with a slender and wide hand-wound movement specially designed for this occasion. This means that Patek Philippe has actually changed almost everything behind its 36-year-old prestigious appearance.
The problem with the smaller Calatrava Refs. 5196 and 5227 are still the mainstays of the Patek Philippe catalog. They are 37 and 39 mm respectively, showing the degree of gradation of the series. However the new Ref. The 6119 model has one of the most iconic and recognizable details of the series: the Paris nail bezel. The three-dimensional pattern is obtained through the traditional guilloche technique. Calatrava’s unique style has always been a double-row Paris nail pattern. More surfaces and more angles provide timepieces with enhanced light effects and true signatures.
Hand feeling problem
The Calatrava “Clous de Paris” dial echoes the cut surface of the bezel. Each hour marker is a pure gold coated hour marker with four facets as an extension of the round polished nail marker located on the railway minute track. Under all this, the dial itself has two flavors. In the rose gold version, it has a powdery silver surface, and its matte finish contrasts sharply with the overall luster of the surrounding polish. The effect of the platinum Calatrava is similar, but Patek Philippe chose a more modern vertical satin finish instead of a very fine texture, and the small seconds display uses a snail pattern. The personality of the 6119 G is different from that of the 6119 R, not just the material and color changes.
Changing the size of Calatrava is undoubtedly meaningful, because magnifying a formal watch from 33 mm to 39 mm has a profound effect on its projected image. Therefore, these Calatrava “Clous de Paris” models are now the largest members of the family, and this new figure requires a correspondingly sized movement. Its width is guided by the position of the small second hand. Too small a caliber will make its position too high, too close to the central pointer, causing design imbalance that Patek Philippe cannot tolerate. Since there is not a large enough caliber in the brand’s stables, the only option is to create a new one.
The new 30-255 movement is 31 mm wide and is a new large-sized three-hand movement from the Geneva watch factory. This size makes it possible to install two barrels instead of one. Patek Philippe did not provide longer runtimes by placing them one after the other, but decided to turn them into different advantages. Both mesh on both sides of the first wheel pinion, providing a smoother and more regular torque to the gear train, resulting in better timing and less strain on the pivot. This is not an attribute that cannot be ignored considering the movement’s slim thickness of 2.5 mm, and it does play a key role in maintaining its reliability. The slim movement is notoriously fragile. In addition, this setting can still provide a 65-hour power reserve.
Blue is the face
Blue may be the new black, the new gray, or the new white, depending on who you listen to. But for Patek Philippe, there has never been a color that can surpass or dominate other colors. Therefore, the watch factory decided to release three watches with blue dials and completely different dials, in the spirit of the golden mean. The first is the delicate guilloche pattern, a pattern of twelve sectors, separated by the powder gold hour markers of Calatrava 4997/200G. The dial was once installed in a 33 mm hand-wound timepiece. It has been upgraded to an automatic movement, the diameter has been expanded to a more modern 35 mm, and its white gold bezel is set with 76 diamonds.
Not just steel
The annual calendar Ref. 4947/1A will attract Patek Philippe customers who are proficient in tailoring. Any complex Patek Philippe made of non-precious metals is of particular interest. But the pattern on the dial is also the main attraction here. Composed of extremely thin vertical and horizontal lines, it is reminiscent of Shandong’s latitude and longitude. This kind of fabric from China has recently become popular in very high-end ties, because the irregular yarn thickness gives a sense of exquisiteness and unevenness.
Not just blue
Nevertheless, the most important news in the Patek Philippe Blues series is Ref. 5236P. Not only because it has deep shadows, it is lighter in the middle and darker on the edges. It’s not just because its dial has a thin vertical satin finish. Part of the reason is its streamlined 41.3 mm platinum case. But mainly because Patek Philippe released a new perpetual calendar mechanism, which led to a very unusual layout. The day of the week, date, and month are on a straight line, in a hole. In-line Perpetual Calendar is a statement: Patek Philippe may be a classic brand, focusing on protecting tradition and excellent watchmaking craftsmanship, but it will work tirelessly to further improve this art.
More than practical
The fact that 5236 is an automatic timepiece shows this determination. If it is not worn every day-we can agree that at this level of complexity, this will not be its owner’s only watch-the perpetual calendar will cease. When you pick it up again, you must reset its date indicator; this may be a pleasant moment, but it is also a tedious moment. Therefore, in order to maintain practicality, many amateurs have a watch winding… it can only be used with an automatic timepiece.
Not just smart
Patek Philippe fake began to call on one of their most discreet movements, a movement that is barely known to the public-and for good reason, because it is only used in a very limited number of watches, and their own release numbers are also very limited. Calibre 31-260 is a beautifully designed wide automatic movement with an off-center solid platinum rotor, making it both thin and powerful. After a series of aesthetic changes aimed at making it more beautiful (especially the shape of the splint), it became the perfect choice for a perpetual calendar device. Deeply embedded in the basic movement, the components responsible for calculating the day of the week, date, month, leap year, moon phase and day/night display constitute the entire movement, with a thickness of only 5.8 mm.
More than just ergonomics
The main attraction here is of course the online display. The first set of two concentric discs are responsible for the ten digits of the day and date. It is intricately coordinated with the second group that displays the date unit and month. In view of the complex technical requirements involved in this unusual space and movement organization, this has led Patek Philippe to apply for a total of three patents. As with the complexities of watchmaking, our goal is never to make the wearer aware of all these complexities (unless they ask). Instead, they provide a quick-read, thorough and original date, engraved in the gorgeous Patek Philippe cheap watches.