Hands-on The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” ultra-thin platinum and smoky green dial

The first all-platinum Royal Oak “Jumbo” ultra-thin 15202, with a gorgeous gradient green dial.

Before proceeding with this article, I want to apologize…I am sorry, because this watch will definitely bring strong emotions to some of you. I’m not the culprit here, it’s all Audemars Piguet’s fault. Yes, this new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ultra-thin model is simply amazing. Yes, this is the first time that 15202 offers a watch case made entirely of platinum. In fact, it has an excellent smoky green dial. Yes, as you might expect, this will be a very rare watch. Say hello to the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” ultra-thin platinum and smoky green dial 15202PT. We are lucky to spend some time to use it.

Not the first all-platinum Royal Oak “JUMBO” ultra-thin model
The Royal Oak was born in 1972 and is a disruptive watch. A watch that defines a new type, namely a luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet. A stainless steel watch that combines sports and high-end timepieces. This watch is a reference, it created the fame as we know it today. If it was originally defined as a stainless steel part, Audemars Piguet soon launched a steel or all-gold version. However, the original Royal Oak “Jumbo” 5402 was never made of platinum.

To find the all-platinum Royal Oak Jumbo, we must go back to 2000, with the reference number 14802 PT. On the occasion of the 125th anniversary, fake Audemars Piguet produced several prototypes for a very special watch, an ultra-thin model with a solid platinum case and bracelet, and a dial made of granular blue gemstones. And there should be a special dial decoration. move. The original intention was to produce 125 samples, however, the retailer expressed hesitation about the very high final price. In the end, only 8 watches were produced, with no special decoration on the movement. It must be pointed out that some examples are equipped with a “compact tapestry” salmon-colored dial.

As for the modern version of the Royal Oak, the reference model 15202 launched in 2012 to commemorate the 40th anniversary of the model, there are countless variants, including stainless steel (of course), rose gold, gold, titanium and platinum or white gold. But 15202 has never been executed in all platinum. The brand recently created an all-platinum Jumbo watch for Japanese retailer Yoshida, the 15206PT, but with a jewel dial and diamond hour markers. As for the Jumbo 15202, the watch you are about to see is the first.

The new Royal Oak “JUMBO” with a smoky green dial
Like the titanium/platinum 15202IP with a smoked blue dial and the platinum 15202BC with a salmon-colored dial, we will discuss the rare version again here. The output is small, but it will make some noise again. But it is undeniable that, This new ultra-thin version of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” in platinum and smoky green is great. There is a chance to see it in metal. This is a very special watch that is different from the classic stainless steel version in look and feel.

Of course, the basic knowledge of Royal Oak Extra-Thin still exists. Except that it is now made of 950 platinum, this new version of the case retains all the codes of the Royal Oak. This means the same ratio, 39 mm in diameter and 8.1 mm in height. In addition, the surface treatment of the case and the bezel are the same, with the vertical drawing of the plane and the angle of the bezel and the polished accents on the sides. The 6-sided screws are still made of platinum, the surface is polished, and the case is still water-resistant to 50 meters. All in all, regardless of the material, compared with 15202ST, there are not many differences in the report.

However, what has changed is the weight of the watch. Platinum is about 2.5 times heavier than stainless steel. Therefore, the new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ultra-thin platinum watch is a wrist watch (over 250 grams), but thanks to its integrated bracelet, the weight is fairly well distributed on the wrist and the watch feels well balanced. Another difference is the color and luster, because platinum reflects light in a different way and is lighter and cooler than stainless steel.

The real important thing about this new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ultra-thin 15202PT is the dial. For several years, Audemars Piguet has been using so-called “smoky” gradient dials in its series, mainly for Royal Oak and code 11.59. The titanium version of Royal Oak launched in 2018 has shown that the gradient color matches the sharpness of the case very well. . This new platinum version brings the smoky concept back, but also adds something new…or at least removes some iconic things; the “small tapestry” pattern is often associated with this watch-but not always So, because there are also multiple versions with textured or brushed dials.

In order to contrast with the cool color of the case, Audemars Piguet chose smoky green-the new color of this series-with a sun-brushed pattern to enhance the color of the central part of the dial. The color of the metal is very charming, changing from bright green to almost black under certain conditions. This color, combined with the new surface treatment of the dial, makes this watch unique. The remaining parts retain the classic elements of the dial, such as platinum luminous hands and hour markers, as well as signs. The date is printed on the disc that matches the dial.

This new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ultra-thin 15202PT watch is worn on the iconic one-piece bracelet, which is the same as the other versions of this watch-just a different material. Below the sapphire caseback is the self-winding ultra-thin Calibre 2121, which is a self-made movement with a height of only 3.05 mm. Again, there is nothing new here, because this is a movement that has been associated with the series for many years. Therefore, we found the same specifications, knowing a frequency of 2.75Hz, a power reserve of 40 hours, a bidirectional 21K gold rotor, an annular ring running on four jewels, and a balance wheel with a variable inertia mass. The decor is very attractive as always.

Audemars Piguet once again gave up a beautiful watch, this is a future collector’s edition, it must be difficult to buy. The beauty of this version is its relative caution, thanks to the use of platinum, which contrasts with its uniqueness and superb green dial…

Technical specifications-Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “JUMBO” ultra-thin platinum
Case: diameter 39 mm x height 8.1 mm-950 platinum case, brushed and polished-platinum octagonal bezel with platinum screws-sapphire crystal glass, AR coating, front and back cover-50 meters water resistance
Dial: smoky green dial with brushed sun pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands, with luminous coating, with date dial
Movement: Calibre 2121, inside-ultra-thin automatic movement-bidirectional 21K rotor with an annular ring running on four jewels-36 jewels-247 parts-28.4 mm x 3.05 mm-19,800 vibrations/hour or 2.75Hz-40 hours power reserve-hours, minutes, date
Bracelet: 950 platinum Royal Oak one-piece bracelet with AP folding clasp
Reference: 15202PT.OO.1240PT.01