Bell & Ross’ Horolum concept returns in the more urban-oriented BR 05 series.
The French brand Bell & Ross is well-known for its iconic BR 01 and BR 03 series of square-in-round designs. These sturdy square case watches have a clear and direct connection to the world of aviation and flight instrumentation, which can be recognized at a glance. This concept was reintegrated into the sporty and fashionable BR 05 series, which came out at the end of 2019. Since then, Bell & Ross has been regularly expanding the BR 05 series, adding complex functions or new aesthetics. Bell & Ross BR 05 Horolum is closer than ever to the more tool-like BR 01 and BR 03 series.
The Horolum concept was first introduced by Bell & Ross in 2017, namely Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Horolum. The monochromatic interpretation of this BR 03-92 uses a micro-blasted steel case, and the dial matches very well in terms of surface treatment. A year later, we saw the launch of BR 03-94 Horolum, a version of the chronograph that followed the same aesthetics. Both watches have a sandwich structure dial, and the lower layer is heavily coated with C5 Super-LumiNova.
BR 05 Horolum continues to use the previous Horolum model, because its case and bracelet have been micro-sandblasted again, and the color and texture of the dial closely match. The steel case, which is still 40 mm in diameter, has a softer, more urban design, while retaining the essence of Bell & Ross. The basic shape is still square, but in BR 05, it is softer and rounder. It also has round dial openings and functional screws on each corner. However, the new micro-sandblasting process makes it look more instrumental, and to be honest, it is very attractive.
The dial of BR 05 Horolum certainly has a lot of luminescent materials. The hour markers are again coated with a very strong C5 Super-LumiNova luminous coating, which emits a bright green light at night. The time scale part is embedded in the inclined outer flange, which we saw on the BR 05 Skeleton model, but it has not been seen on the full dial model until today. Essentially, it combines elements of BR 03-92 Horolum and BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum. The hour and minute hands are also filled with C5 Super-LumiNova. The green coated second hand will not glow in the dark, if you ask me, this is a missed opportunity.
In terms of movement, it is not surprising that Bell & Ross chose the BR-CAL.321 movement again. This is based on Sellita SW300-1, which is a slim version of SW200-1 (increase by 1 mm), for example for BR 05 Steel & Gold and BR 05 Skeleton Blue. The automatic movement operates at a frequency of 28,800vph (4Hz) and has a 42-hour power reserve. It is wound by a complete hollow-winding rotor, designed to imitate the wheels of a sports car. This can be seen through the sapphire crystal back cover.
Bell & Ross BR 05 Horolum is equipped with a one-piece stainless steel bracelet, using the same micro-sandblasting as the case, or with a black rubber strap. Both options are equipped with a folding clasp. Review copy watches
Technical Specifications-BELL & ROSS BR 05 HOROLUM
Case: diameter 40 mm-micro-blasted stainless steel case-sapphire crystal case back-screw-in crown-100 meters water resistance
Dial: Matte grey dial-hour markers recessed into the inclined outer flange, filled with Super-LumiNova-hour and minute hands filled with Super-LumiNova-central seconds hand coated with Super-LumiNova-date window with frame
Movement: Caliber BR-CAL.321 (basic Sellita SW300-1) – automatic winding – 25.60mm x 3.6mm – 25 jewels – 28,800vph (4Hz) – 42 hours power reserve – hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Black rubber strap with folding clasp-integrated micro-blasted stainless steel strap with triple folding clasp
SRB-black rubber strap BR05A-GM-ST/SST-stainless steel bracelet