I have always believed that Panerai is a living brand. Why do you say that? Because most of the brands we are familiar with abide by the consistent product principles and only make reasonable products according to the plan, even if they are rigorous, they are too much and almost boring. At least since I knew this brand, Panerai has a free mentality to create and listen to suggestions from inside and outside the industry. Since we met the former president in 2006, we hit it off. In addition to the annual watch exhibition, we also went to Florence, Neuchâtel, and Singapore until he retired. In those years, I saw a lot of special models from Panerai, and their ideas went beyond the basic concepts of the watch industry – this is the future of the watch industry!
This year Panerai focused on two areas at W&W: the new Submersible collection and the concept of sustainable watchmaking led by eSteel. For Panerai, these two topics are not related to the core products of the brand. Instead, they show the brand’s development ideas and the determination to win more markets and customers from another perspective.
stalker in the ocean family
There are historical reasons why Panerai has included the Submersible professional diving watch in the Luminor series for a long time. About the origin and historical story of Panerai, our magazine has already repeated it dozens of times, and maybe some small stories can arouse everyone’s interest.
In 2006, a year after Panerai promoted its own movement, the brand president, the project director of its own movement, and several of our watch media people from all over the world gathered in the Tuscan Valley to eat and chat. I don’t know who brought up the topic of diving watches, comparing Panerai and Rolex Submariner. The president immediately interrupted the conversation: “Panerai is a purely nautical brand, and only makes nautical watches…” He emphasized the marine watch, which means that all Panerai originates from nautical-related fields or themes , is an expert in sailing. No one knows sailing better than Panerai. You must know that marine watches are not only diving watches. If you only talk about diving watches, “We have Submersible, that is the omnipotent diving watch!”
That year, Panerai launched the Submersible PAM193 with a depth gauge, and I heard the name METAS for the first time from this watch. Panerai Submersible was inspired by the professional diving watch L specially made for the Egyptian Navy in 1956, Egiziano “The Great Egyptian”, and the first batch of Submersible PAM024 and PAM025 in 1998 set a waterproof requirement of 300 meters.
The brand has always emphasized that every piece of Panerai is not only a marine watch, but also a marine combat watch – that’s how Panerai came. In order to demonstrate the real practicality of the watch underwater, he took us all the way west through Lucca to the Mediterranean Sea, and let the divers and photographers go to the sea to test it. As he said, the 30-meter underwater dial showed Almost nothing can be seen.
A diving cheap replica watches born from a brand whose every watch is a nautical combat watch is like a watcher standing on the shoulders of giants. Compared with peers or similar products, it is the starting point of the industry and the actual voice of the profession. It’s not a market trend, not even the depth of diving.
Even if the words have come to this point, the professionalism, reliability and stability of diving watches are still the last word. Therefore, Panerai has always taken the lead in applying cutting-edge technology, materials and concepts to Submersible. The titanium PAM025 in 1998, the PAM193 with a depth gauge in 2006, and the PAM382 with a bronze case in 2011 are also my first pieces. Submersible. The next 2013 is a big year for Submersible: PAM364 with a water-resistant titanium case of 2,500 meters, full-ceramic PAM508, and second-generation bronze PAM507 all debuted, playing an important role in the surging global diving watch boom.
In 2019, Jean-Marc Pontroué, the new president of Panerai, decided to separate Submersible as a series – the stealth series. Since then, the Submersible sneaker series has been dominated by the traditional 47mm “large” and the newly added 42mm “small” model, and the 44mm is limited to special models (eLAB-ID™ concept watch) and red gold carbon fiber watches (Goldtech ™ OroCarbo).
Submersible stealth series QuarantaQuattro new product continues the basic performance of Submersible stealth series
This year, Panerai fake will focus on the 44mm “medium” case and release the new Submersible series Quaranta Quattro, making the entire series into 42mm, 44mm and 47mm size combinations, which are more suitable for the wearer’s needs. The new watch continues the basic performance of the Submersible sneak series, including 300 waterproof, equipped with crown guard bridge, unidirectional rotating bezel, luminous hands and hour markers, etc., equipped with P.900 movement, with a small second dial at 9 o’clock , with a three-day power reserve. The new table update improves the date window and greatly improves legibility, which will also be applied to the entire Submersible sneak series.
The new 44mm Submersible QuarantaQuattro comes in three styles: Carbotech™ Blu Abisso Carbon (PAM01232) with a lighter-than-titanium, corrosion-resistant, scratch-resistant Carbotech™ carbon fiber with a natural black texture, available in Deep Ocean Blue Dial and strap; stainless steel case with black dial version (PAM01229) featuring a contrasting white luminous coating with black synthetic rubber and dark grey fabric strap; stainless steel case with Bianco white dial with army green watch With section (PAM01226).
Panerai is committed to reducing environmental impact and waste. The Submerisble QuarantaQuattro offers a rubber strap made of 30% recycled materials and a strap made of 68% environmentally friendly recycled fabric materials. Both models with stainless steel cases also come with a tool for changing the strap and a screwdriver for removing the buckle.
A lowercase e is the way forward
On January 21, 2016, I came to Panerai’s Neuchâtel factory as agreed in advance to preview the three questions I just finished. He was told by the old president that he would do it by the end of 2017, and then retired. I said: Then later this year, let’s make another appointment? As a result, we were all busy and never made an appointment.
So, the 2018 Geneva SIHH was the last time we met. It was a visit, but it was actually some chat that was completely unreported, and we all mentioned the 2011 trip to Florence. At that time, in order to let us “foreigners” know more about Florence, Panerai arranged a guided in-depth tour for us. Towards the end of dinner, he suddenly asked if we had been to a place? Neither of us understood the Italian he spoke. So he simply asked everyone to pack up and go out together.
We came to the stone wall of the old building in the alley with a slight slope in the old city center of Florence. The old gentleman said that this is the former residence of Dante. When he took over Panerai in early 1997, he had nothing in his hand, just like Dante who traveled through life, but luckily he didn’t go to hell… “No one tells you what to do, you still have to do it, and do it in the before anyone else.”
A quarter of a century later, Panerai has proudly become one of the leading personalities in fine watchmaking, and many of the factors that directly make it today were not known 25 years ago. It is for this reason that Panerai insists on being one step ahead and prepares for the sustainability of future development. Among them, there are the renewal of ideas, the creation of materials, and the unremitting pursuit of “sustainable development” – this popular concept.
In the midst of the high-profile luxury goods industry, the watch and jewellery industry has a long-standing pursuit of sustainable development. The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), established in 2005, aims to set responsible standards for the entire industry chain of the jewelry industry – from raw material extraction to processing to sales. Richemont Group also launched the “Richemont Green Handbook” (Richemont Green Handbook), which defines responsible material sources and sets standards for the group’s environmental protection. (Reduce, Reuse, Recycle) banners that encourage companies to move in the right direction.
Last year, Panerai launched the Submersible eLAB-ID™ concept watch, with a record 98.6% of the weight of environmentally friendly recycled materials. Its case, sandwich dial and movement bridges are made from EcoTitanium™, a lightweight aerospace-grade reconstituted titanium alloy with more than 80% of its metal content of recycled origin. 100% recycled SuperLuminova™ is used on the dial and hands, and the movement escapement is made from 100% recycled silicon. Both innovative materials are produced from waste raw materials through a specially developed small-scale remanufacturing process. From the sapphire crystal to the gold hands, most major parts of the watch contain recycled materials.
This year, Panerai has made persistent efforts to release the new 44mm Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel™ watch, which contains 72 grams of environmentally friendly recycled materials, accounting for 52% of the overall weight (137 grams). The recycled steel eSteel is composed of 95% recycled material and 5% pure element material. It can be used in professional diving watches with the highest technical requirements, which means that the various properties of this recycled material are comparable to traditional stainless steel. Therefore, The brand is also engraved with the words eSteel on the crown guards and dials of these models. The dial and bezel of the new watch are designed in the same color system. There are three styles of dark blue, gray and green. The polished ceramic bezel is used for the first time. The dial is also polished and gradient color treatment. Presents stunning layered beauty.
The watch is equipped with a P.900 self-winding movement, only 4.2 mm thick, with a date display, a power reserve of three days, and a water-resistant depth of about 300 meters. Each watch comes with two straps in the same colour as the dial, one made of recycled PET fabric and the other made of recycled rubber. Comes with exclusive strap replacement tool, as well as a screwdriver to remove the clasp.
While vigorously developing new materials, Panerai has gradually regularized, institutionalized and targeted the implementation of the concept of sustainable development. For example, since 2012, Panerai has become a member of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) and has obtained the COP (Industry Guidelines) Certification; 93% of the energy used in Panerai’s buildings worldwide is renewable energy; 70% of the store’s furniture and building materials are certified recycled products; 100% of the gold materials used are recycled; it is the first Luxury brands using recycled steel have so far reduced the use of brand new stainless steel materials by 8%; POS materials are shipped by ship, resulting in a significant 80% reduction in carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions during transportation; brand commitment to 2025 , 30% of the series will use recycled materials in the design and production process, and so on.
The story of Panerai is full of the spirit of chasing fearless adventure. In the face of the constant technical requirements of Panerai wearers and the changes in the industry style, the brand has never stopped pioneering and innovating. At the same time, the lowercase e, which marks sustainable development and represents environmental friendliness, heralds Panerai’s lofty dream, which is more prosperous in the future and a tribute to the Panerai Creative Workshop (Laboratorio di Idee). A driving force for vigorous creativity and relentless exploration. chronowatchmall.com