Patek Philippe Aquanaute Luce Annual Calendar 5261R-001, a unisex luxury sports watch for everyone Shifts in cultural norms are often gradual, and the watch industry is often far behind, but Patek Philippe is leading the way this year (unofficially) with unisex releases. Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar 5261R – An unexpected unisex design duo featuring a new movement in a versatile case sized to fit any wrist. The details of the unisex design are of course subjective, but the result is one of the most balanced Patek Philippe Aquanauts to date.
Model 5261R-001 is a 39.5mm 4N rose gold case with automatic annual calendar inside Caliber 26-330 S QA LU. The “ear-shaped” case mixes the flat brushed and curved polished finishes for which the Aquanaut collection and Nautilus are known. It features Patek Philippe’s new primary color on the dial and rubber strap: a matte cloudy blue-gray that changes from light sky blue to a soft monochromatic gray depending on the light. The combination of blue-gray and 4N rose gold case, which is slightly more yellow than the standard 5N rose gold, is a bit unorthodox, but so is the intentionally gender-neutral Aquanaut. Not surprisingly, this color combination is perfect for a modern and elegant effect in metallics. Patek usually assigns its precious metals to specific collections, 5N rose gold for men and 4N rose gold for women. However, after experiencing the new product in person and seeing the 5N rose gold version at the same time, it became clear that the choice of a more yellow-toned gold case was the right one.
The new in-house automatic Caliber 266-330 S QA LU movement – visible through the sapphire case back – is the first annual calendar in the Aquanaut collection perfect Fake Watches. It uses a simple movement architecture, flipping the calendar module to form a nearly symmetrical display with the moon phase at 12 o’clock and the date at 6 o’clock. Among its 319 components are a Gyromax balance spring in silicon powered by Patek Philippe’s proprietary technology, and a Silinvar hairspring beating at 4Hz. The new full rotor automatic annual calendar movement is just as stunning and solid as a sports watch like the Aquanaut, although the 30m water resistance is disappointing for a sports watch, as is the roughly 45 hour power reserve of any kind calendar.
Prominently positioned at 12 o’clock is a deep midnight navy blue moon disc with a pink gold moon and stars. The moon phase and other calendar functions are adjusted via recessed pushers on the side of the case. This is the biggest shortcoming of the new Aquanaut; the brand claims it is a new movement, but fails to fully adjust all functions via the crown, thus resulting in reduced water resistance. This tech feature is present on the new Calatrava Travel Time watch and is impressive both technically and functionally – but I digress. Thanks to the gearing of the annual calendar, Cal. 26-330 S QA LU tracks the number of days each month, and only needs to be adjusted once a year at the end of February. Below the moon phase complication and slightly below the center line of the dial, you’ll find two snail-shaped subdials showing the day of the week and month at 3 and 9 o’clock respectively. The text on these subdials flips direction between upper and lower for better legibility. Two deeply carved channels surround the writing on the subdials, revealing the solid gold dial below.
The hands and raised numerals feature a high-contrast mix of white luminescent material and 18k rose gold, making this possibly one of the most luminescent dials Patek Philippe has ever made. Peripheral hour markers, gold-applied numerals, hour and minute hands are filled with traditional luminous. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to get our hands on the lume lens at the Patek Philippe conference at Watches & Wonders, but we’ve included images from the brand in the gallery below.
As with all Aquanauts aaa replica watches, a fitted rubber strap fits between the 21mm lugs of the case and is embossed with the grid pattern on the dial. But the new Aquanaut 5261R-001 does a little mixing and matching here that you won’t find elsewhere in the range. The embossing of the strap echoes the traditional women’s Aquarius pattern, but not exactly with the dial. The dial features the frameless flat mesh texture found in the men’s Aquanaut collection. This is a very subtle change that I didn’t notice at first, after discussions with the brand it is said that the Aquanaut Luce 5261R-001 is a unisex watch that utilizes the most balanced features of each gender standard model to create an equal Masculine and feminine results on the wrist.
On the wrist, the Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar 5261R-001 is pure luxury sports watch. The gentle curve of the case hugs the wrist as if it was designed with each individual anatomy in mind, and sits even lower than its 10.94mm thickness. At 39.9mm wide and 47.35mm lug-to-lug, it feels much smaller than the 42mm men’s case, and may be too small for those used to larger cases — but in a slightly Below 40mm, it’s just a matter of perception as it’s not a small watch.
Men’s and Ladies’ Aquanauts watches feature one by one, with bold new colors and a radiantly warm 4N rose gold case, the new Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar is both a spectacle and a work of art, even amidst its many haute complications Introduced at Watches and Wonders 2023. Aside from being the first annual calendar to join the Aquanaut collection, it’s also the first time the brand has intentionally created a gender-neutral watch, and they’re not the only ones doing so this year. This is a welcome new trend that embraces all watch collectors and allows them to choose a watch that speaks to them without brands trying to make the choice for them. While the combination of blue-gray and rose gold may not be for everyone, the new annual calendar movement is elegantly laid out, legible and sure to appear in many forms in the future. cheap replica watches